Cafés and bars 

La Petite Charlotte 24 rue des Abbesses, 18e. Mº Abbesses. Tues-Sun till 8pm. 
Crêpes, pâtisseries and ?8.84 formule on sunny tables. 

Le Refuge Cnr rue Lamarck & the steps of rue de la Fontaine-du-But, 18e. Mº Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Mon-Sat till 8.30pm. 
A gentle café stop, with a long view west down rue Lamarck, offering standard café fare and attracting a friendly local clientele. 

Le Sancerre 35 rue des Abbesses, 18e. Mº Abbesses. Daily 7am-2am. 
A fashionable hang-out for the young and trendy of allnationalities on the southern slopes of Montmartre. 

Restaurants 

L'Assiette 78 rue Labat, 18e tel 01.42.59.06.63. Mº Château-Rouge. Closed Wed evening & Sun. 
A bit out of the way, but very friendly, with delicious champignons forestières, chocolate charlotte and a surprising beetroot sorbet starter. An extraordinarily good-value ?14.94 menu. 

Fouta Toro 3 rue du Nord, 18e tel 01.42.55.42.73. Mº Marcadet-Poissonniers. Daily except Tues 7.30pm-1am. 
A tiny, crowded, welcoming Senegalese diner in a very scruffy alley northeast of Montmartre. No more than ?10.67 all-in. Be prepared for a wait unless you come at 8pm or after 10.30pm. 

au Grain de Folie 24 rue La Vieuville, 18e tel 01.42.58.15.57. Mº Abbesses. Daily 12.30-2.30pm & 7-11.30pm. 
A simple, cheap and friendly vegetarian restaurant, with just the sort of traditional atmosphere that you would hope for from Montmartre. Gratin and fruit compote for ?8.38, menu ?15.24. 

Marie-Louise 52 rue Championnet, 18e tel 01.46.06.86.55. Mº Simplon. Tues-Sat lunchtime & evening until 10pm; closed Aug. 
A bit of a trek north, but the excellent traditional French cuisine at this renowned restaurant is definitely worth the journey. Menu at ?19.82, otherwise around ?27.44. 

au Port de Pidjiguiti 28 rue Étex, 18e tel 01.42.26.71.77. Mº Guy-Môquet. Tues-Sun lunchtime & eve until 11pm; closed Jan. 
Very pleasant atmosphere and excellent food. It is run by a village in Guinea-Bissau, whose inhabitants take turns to staff the restaurant; the proceeds go to the village. Good-value wine list. Menu ?15.24; à la carte around ?18.29. 

au Virage Lepic 61 rue Lepic, 18e tel 01.42.52.46.79. Mº Blanche & Mº Abbesses. Daily except Tues 7pm-2am. Simple, traditional fare in a noisy, friendly atmosphere created by the singers - in the French/Parisian idiom. Small, smoky and very enjoyable. Around ?15.24.